We
Get the job done Right
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HAYES
RIGGING
Hayes
Rigging & Custom Hardware, Inc.
2916 Bayport Blvd. (Hwy 146)
Seabrook, Tx 77586 USA
281.474.4505
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LEARN
A FEW ROPES OF YOUR OWN
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Bight
and Loop
Like an earthworm, a rope has two indistinguishable ends. Everything
in between is the "standing part." The simplest maneuver is a change
of direction, called a Bight. A cross over or under is called a Loop.
The end left hanging is called the "bitter end." |
Figure
-Of- Eight
Less complicated than the knot you put in your shoelaces, the Figure-Of-Eight
is an ideal basic knot for use at the end of a line to prevent a sheet
or line from slipping through a block. Make an underhand loop, then
bring the free end over the standing part and bring it under and through
the loop. |
Bowline
For a simple running loop, the Bowline is the sailor's best friend.
Begin with a small overhand loop, make a larger loop and bring the
free end through the first loop. Now form a bight by bringing the
free end under and over the standing part, then back through the loop.
This won't slip or snarl under strain, yet will untie easily with
one tug on the bight. |
Belaying
Endlessly winding a rope around a cleat is not Belaying. Loop the
line around the base, under the arms of the cleat, then bring it up
and over diagonally, around and under one arm, then over, around and
under the other, in a continuous figure eight, securing the bitter
end by tucking it under the last crossover. |
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Fisherman's
Bend or Anchor Bend
The two loops that swivel freely make the Anchor Bend perfect for
making fast a line to an anchor, buoy or spar. Take two turns through
the ring, followed by an underhand loop, then thread the bitter end
through the turns and pull tight. You should give the bitter end an
extra hitch around the standing part for greater strength. |
Tug
Boat Hitch
The Tug Boat Hitch is ideal for heavy towing, yet can be released
under great strain when necessary. Take one or two turns around the
towing post, cross the bight under, then drop the bight over the top.
Now loop the bight back around the standing part, drop the bight over
the top with a half twist, and pull taut. |
Single
Sheet Bend
The Sheet Bend, used to tie two ropes together, is at its best when
things are complicated by ropes of unequal size. Form a bight in the
larger line. Thread the smaller line's bitter end through the bight,
around it, back through the under itself, and out over on the same
side as the large line's bitter end. |
Double
Sheet Bend
When the strain on the two ropes you are joining is particularly great,
tie the Single Sheet Bend, as above, leaving enough length in the
small line's bitter end for another loop around, under itself inside
the bight, and out over again. To prevent slipping and jamming, always
make sure that both bitter ends are on the same side of the knot. |
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Knot
Strength
Type
of knot, bend or hitch |
Percentage
of retained strength |
Bowline |
67-75 |
Anchor
Bend |
Over
5/8" dia. ring |
55-65 |
Over
4" dia. post |
80-90 |
Two
half hitches |
Over
5/8" dia. ring |
60-70* |
Over
4" dia. post |
65-75* |
Square
Knot |
43-57* |
Sheet
Bend |
48-58* |
Fisherman's
Knot |
50-58 |
Carrick
Bend |
55-60 |
*Smaller
sizes of nylon are liable to slip without breaking.
*Both nylon and P/D combination ropes in smaller sizes are
liable to slip.
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Round
Turn and Two Half Hitches
Formerly known as a Rolling Hitch
Is especially useful when there's a strain on the line, since you
can tie it with one hand while holding the line taut. Take two turns
through the ring or around the post, then finish up with a clove hitch
over the standing part. Keep this one set snug. |
Clove
Hitch
When a line has to be made fast to a pile or spar quickly, the Clove
Hitch is the simple, speedy answer. A simple loop around the pile,
followed by a second, with the free end crossed under and pulled tight,
results in a hitch that gets even tighter as tensions increases on
the standing part. |
COURTESY
OF
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